As I sit here by my candle, I am recalling another candle, a candle in a church beside a grave. The church is Holy Trinity Church, Stratford-Upon-Avon. I was visiting there again a few weeks ago on a weekend break. I have been inside the church many times. It’s a kind of pilgrimage for me as the grave is where Shakespeare is buried.
His grave is inside the church behind the main altar. In a separate grave beside him is his wife Anne, who outlived him, and there are graves of other members of his family beside them. The church is situated by the River Avon and the large stained glass window behind Shakespeare’s grave looks out onto it. So, he is probably laid as close to the river as possible.
You might imagine a pilgrimage to be arduous, involving a long and difficult journey on rough roads but my pilgrimage isn’t like that. It’s a lovely walk from the Theatre along a shady pathway by the river, where the willow trees reach down to the water: a walk Shakespeare must have taken himself. Of course there wasn’t a theatre in the town then: performances took place in inn yards or in the Town Hall. The troupe of strolling players, the Earl of Worcester’s Men, appeared there quite regularly. Shakespeare probably saw them when he was a boy and got the acting bug.
Just before you get to the church there is a dell, which provides a grassy space where modern strolling players can perform: students, schoolchildren and amateur drama groups from around the country in shortened versions of his plays. You can make your way to the church through the graveyard and along the avenue of trees which leads to the church door.
Whenever I stand in front of Shakespeare’s grave, I reflect for a few moments. There is always a posy or bunch flowers on the grave. I always mean to bring some myself but never do. Perhaps I will next time. But I do say thank you. After all, he has enriched my life so much. As I have mentioned in these meditations before, Shakespeare is a stream running through my life, just as the River Avon runs through the town and ran through his own life too.
I remember visiting the church once when I was on a course with Royal Shakespeare Company’s Education department. I had stayed in an actor friend’s cottage in the village of Loxley nearby. I got to Stratford an hour before the course began, as buses were infrequent. So I called into the church which was quiet and empty – too early for tourists. The church had just opened for the day. It was very still and so very intimate standing there beside the grave: just Shakespeare and myself in the church, or so it seemed. Since then it has always seemed like that, just Shakespeare and me, even though the church may be quite busy behind me and visitors may be standing either side of me. Somehow despite that, I am able to zone in on him.
On that particular morning, I remember standing there and apologising for my production of ‘Julius Caesar’ at school a few months earlier. It was a good concept -a modern costume production – but a bit of a mess in places. This was partly because I was directed two other plays virtually at the same time. I was rather over ambitious that year. Of my three school productions of ‘Caesar’ over the years it was the second and the least successful. As I stood there, I wondered how many other directors (or actors for that matter) had stood there and apologised too: ‘Sorry for messing up your play, William!’ (I can think of a few that should have done!)
But then I thought: we did take the production to Hungary, where it did improve, and how wonderful that we did, along with four other plays of his we’d taken since we first went there in 1990. So I hope he was pleased. He never went there himself with his own company. As far as I recall, the first Shakespeare play to be performed there was ‘Hamlet’, in translation of course, in 1770.
I am sure he would have appreciated our Drama tours as he used to tour himself with his acting company, as well as appearing at the Globe on Bankside in London and at court. With him it was setting up in inn yards, with us it was setting up in schools (and eventually theatres). One thing I learnt from our school tours was that Shakespeare is so portable. You can perform him anywhere as long as you have some kind of stage, ideally a platform – and an audience.
I remember we once performed ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ in a prestigious school in Budapest. It may have been prestigious but it was also a very old building and poorly equipped. This was 30 years ago so I am sure it has improved since then. We performed the play in a gym with a platform at one end and no lighting to speak of. We had to create the magic of the forest ourselves with Shakespeare’s words and our colourful costumes. However, Puck and the Fairies did ‘fly in’ from wall bars on gym ropes! I also remember some of their students sitting in the back row of the audience and following the performance with copies of the play in English, which I found very moving. I imagine Shakespeare would have quite enjoyed being with us on tour. He would have been an extra pair of hands in rehearsals if nothing else!
After I visited the grave a few weeks ago, I sat down for a moment in the quiet side chapel. A volunteer in the church came over to me and began to talk to me. She asked me if it was my first visit, so I replied that I had visited the church many times and told her a little about my teaching career. When I explained to her that Shakespeare was a major part of my life, it was as if I has realised it for the first time. It made me stop and think of the enormity of what I had told her. Yes he has been a major strand in my life. He has been an inspiration and an impetus and at the core of my teaching.
He has energised me, indeed perhaps I have fed off his energy, even though his was spent 400 years ago. I was reminded of this by the production I saw that evening. It was the comedy ‘As You Like It’. The premise of the production was that a group of veteran actors were getting together for a kind of reunion in a rehearsal room as they had first performed the play together in 1978. Despite the age of most the cast, what energy they had dashing around the stage and doing a dance number at one point. What experience too on that stage: the lines were crystal clear and the key comic and emotional moments were too.Most of all the ‘young lovers’ convinced us despite their age. And the production created a warm glow in the audience at the end as all Shakespeare’s comedies should.
How did Shakespeare cope with being retired? I thought that in the church. As far as we know he left the London theatres in 1613 at retired to Stratford where he died in 1616. What were his last three years like for him, especially if he still had so much creative energy? Or was he burnt out, or sick? Or was he slowly losing his mind to dementia? I have a feeling that underneath his great tragedy, ‘King Lear’ lies his own fear of losing his mind. Perhaps he was done with theatre, perhaps he’d had enough. Perhaps he had walked away and quietly settled into retirement. It was so long ago. We will never know anyway.
I know that I have found it difficult to be serene about my retirement. But sitting in that church the other morning, I did wonder about his. While I sat there and when I talked with the volunteer, the thought came to me that my work is done. My work is done. I have retired from the teaching profession.
But I am still teaching: I am giving a course n a week’s time at Swanwick Writers’ Summer School. And Shakespeare is still with me.
Marcus Aurelius writes in his own Meditations, ‘ What is your profession? Being a good man.’ I would amend that to ‘Trying to be a good man.’ For sometimes it is difficult to be good. But it is a profession we never retire from.
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