Meditation 89

It is still light this evening as I sit beside my candle and gaze through my lounge window. However, my thoughts are led to wider vistas than my modest front garden can provide. I am thinking beyond compact suburbia to more expansive scenes. I am remembering wide-ranging mountains capped with snow. Not the mountain ranges that my dear friend and inspiration Marcus Aurelius might have seen on his military campaigns: the Carpathians, the Tatras, or even the Buda Hills, which, though smaller, can be capped with snow too. 

I am remembering the Canadian Rockies which provide the epic backdrop to the city of Vancouver, which I have recently visited once more. My thoughts have also turned to the Olympic mountains in Washington State in the U.S.A. This equally impressive mountain range lies on the misty horizon across the water from where I also stayed: a little town called Sidney on Vancouver Island, where my relatives live. My friend and I could see the mountains from the little balcony of our hotel suite, mysterious in the early haze of morning. We saw their grandeur more clearly when we were bobbing about in a boat on a tour around Victoria harbour. 

Victoria is quite near to Sidney and despite being on Vancouver Island and therefore not on the mainland, is the capital of British Columbia. It has a nineteenth century colonial atmosphere, with its Royal Empress Hotel, named after Queen Victoria, whose statue stands imperiously outside the Parliament building by the harbour. The Parliament building is lit up at night – as  are our own Houses of Parliament of course. However, as well as being floodlit, the outline of the building is traced by lines of lights too, making it look like a fairy castle or a Disneyland attraction, which contrasts strangely with its legislative dignity. I digress and I am being unkind as I like the city very much. 

Indeed, on this recent trip, I realised how much the Island has become a part of me. Perhaps I have become aware of this because I last visited in July 2019, before the pandemic. Prior to that, I made visits nearly every year for 15 years or so. It was good to be back and my relatives are fine thanks. It was also good to show a friend around a little. I enjoy showing people around places I have visited before. Over the years I have learnt a great deal about the history of Victoria. This was because I became interested in the work of Emily Carr (1871-1945), the artist and writer who was born in Victoria and spent most of her life on Vancouver Island. Maybe showing him around also made me realise how attached I am to the place. 

Because I spent so much time in Sidney, staying with my aunt in her apartment, I gradually became so attached to the sleepy retirement enclave of Sidney that I began to write stories about it several years ago. Or rather about the people who may have retired there. What might be the secrets from their past which they are now forced to face up to?  Or the feelings of guilt or grief, remorse or regret that return to haunt them, eddying around their thoughts, like waves over a rock pool? What might be happening behind the placid exterior of the town?  I called the collection ‘Driftwood’ after all the strange shaped logs that lie around on the beaches there. I’ve almost finished a (hopefully) final revision of the stories now and my next stage is to see how I can get them published as a collection, or even separately in magazines. 

One of my reasons for starting this blog was to promote my writing. It is strange that only now, four years after I started publishing these meditations, I am finally mentioning ‘Driftwood’  in them. But then, there has been so much else to reflect upon over the last four turbulent years, hasn’t there? I will keep you posted about the future progress of ‘Driftwood’ in these pages no doubt in the future. 

Of course, Sidney has changed since I was last there, nearly four years ago. Shops and restaurants have closed down and new ones have opened, as has been happening here in the UK. The pandemic seems to have drawn a line in the sand, hasn’t it? It has caused some businesses to go under and new ones have replaced them. In the same way, I sometimes wonder how some small businesses or independent cafes or eateries have survived through it all. I thought as much when walking around Sidney. But then, nothing is immutable, not even us. Yet, like the little town of Sidney, we change and yet we don’t change. We move on, often imperceptibly, and yet somehow we are the same person. Something retirement has taught me: just because our circumstances have changed, we don’t  have to give up who we are. Retirement should enhance who we are.

Aside from new businesses emerging, new apartment blocks are going up everywhere. The town doesn’t seem so small now or so cozy. It had a ‘village’ atmosphere about it when I first went there in 2004. Now it is definitely a small town and growing. Things have moved on. And yet if you walk down the main thoroughfare, Beacon Street, at night, it is as quiet and sleepy as ever.  

The streets are definitely quiet and sleepy in April, before the summer season starts, as everything closes around 9. Except, we discovered, the Dickens Pub at the top of the town. I think Charles Dickens would be pleased that despite the low season, conviviality was continuing in a pub named after him. Although somehow I can’t imagine him watching ice hockey games on the TV like some of the customers in the bar. He would be more interested in engaging them in conversation and observing the other customers casually but intently (as a possible inspiration for a character or story). However, as he was fond of games and pastimes, he may not have been averse to shooting a game or two of pool with some of the regulars. 

Always observing everything and everyone around him, Dickens loved to walk the streets of London late into the night. It was a compulsion in him and of course his nocturnal rambles provided him with so much material for his novels and stories. I think he would find the streets of Sidney rather tame in comparison. Like me, he would have to imagine what was behind the silent facades of the properties. Dear me, I should not be linking myself to Dickens in a sentence! It is most immodest of me!   

Sadly one of my favourite haunts, the Rum Runner bar and restaurant, right by the ocean, was closing the week I was there. It was a happy coincidence that I was visiting Sidney before it finally closed its doors. The Rum Runner (under a different name – The Cannery) has a story all to itself in my collection, and the story is coincidentally about its possible closure.  Dickens would definitely have been at home there. He often frequented waterfront inns and pubs, though the ones he visited  would have been far less salubrious than the Rum Runner, as is evident from the low dives along the Thames waterfront that appear in his novels. 

I think he would have got on famously with Bill, the landlord, and would have commiserated with him heartily on the Rum Runner’s closure. No doubt he would have dashed behind the bar, juggled with a couple of lemons and immediately set to making his own rum and brandy punch to cheer Bill’s spirits. The recipe is mentioned in one of his letters and, indeed in ‘David Copperfield’. When David finds Mr Micawber at home in a melancholy mood, he asks him to make a bowl of punch and immediately Mr Micawber’s spirits soar as he begins to make the punch, ‘his face shining out at us out of the delicate fumes’. Perhaps Dickens would get Bill to join in to cheer him up.  When I return to Sidney, I shall miss the Rum Runner.      

My visit to Sidney has reminded me of how much change we have all been through in the last few years. I am no longer able to stay in my aunt’s apartment now, as she is in a care home. She is still very much alive and alert, aged 88! Her accommodation may have changed, but she hasn’t. There may have been many changes in and around Sidney, indeed, in our own lives,  but there is so much that hasn’t changed.  The Pacific ocean for one and the driftwood on the shore, blanched by the endless ebb and flow of the waves. And the mountains on the horizon shrouded in the morning mist. 

And the stillness.

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Meditation 59

Marcus Aurelius is in my thoughts tonight as I write this meditation. Recently I had my first visit to the barbers since the long lockdown ended. When the barber had finished my haircut and beard trim, I checked my face in the reflection in the large mirror in front of me. It looked a little like Marcus himself. Reflected in the mirror, I seemed to look more like him than in my photo at the top of this blog.

At last, after nearly sixty meditations, it is time to explain the origin of that blog photo. I am going to come clean. The photo was not taken in the ruins of Rome, but in front of a black scenery flat in my Drama studio. I wasn’t wearing a Roman toga either but a white sheet draped over my shoulders to look like one. The inspiration for the pose was partly statues of Marcus himself, which I had seen on visits to Rome, but more specifically a bust of the emperor Hadrian, Marcus’ great-uncle. Several years earlier, I had been to an exhibition at the British Museum about Hadrian and brought home a postcard of a striking black and white photo of the marble profile of the emperor. The postcard gave me the inspiration for the image for my blog and it gave my photographer an idea of the image I wanted.

Our image of Marcus is somewhat idealised, coming from statues which were meant to flatter the Emperor. However, statues or busts of emperors were more realistic by his reign (161-180 CE) than those of the earliest Caesars. In all of the statues or busts I have seen of Marcus, his hair and beard are not as close cut as mine are. Recently a statue of him has been discovered in Ryedale in North Yorkshire. It looks quite primitive compared with the elegant ones I have seen in Rome and was probably carved by Roman settlers. However the beard and hair are unmistakable and there is writing underneath confirming that it is Marcus and not Hadrian, though it could be him as he ordered the building of the famous Wall that bears his name to mark the perimeter of the Roman province of Britannia. The Wall is situated further North from Ryedale,

I find it interesting that the lives of Marcus and myself are once again in some small way connected. I was born officially in North Yorkshire before the area where I was brought up became Teesside and then Cleveland. And now a statue of Marcus has been unearthed in North Yorkshire. He never visited there of course but he did stay in Pannonia, which is now Hungary, on his military campaigns. I have also spent time in Hungary leading my school Drama tours and I mentioned in a previous blog that coins bearing his image have been found in the Buda Hills on the outskirts of Budapest. I did not know any of this before launching this blog in Autumn 2018, with his Meditations as my inspiration. So the connections are quite uncanny. I would love to play him in a play or a movie. For the moment, however, I’ll settle for this blog. I definitely need to re-read him – another one for my retirement bucket list!

Perhaps when I was looking at my reflection in the barber’s chair the other day, I was idealising myself. Or was I seeing just a glimmer of Marcus in myself? I hope there is at least a glimmer of him in these meditations.

We sometimes have an image of ourselves in our mind’s eye, don’t we? Hopefully it is a positive rather than a negative one. This self-image can change depending upon the circumstances we find ourselves in. It will never be the whole truth about ourselves, but hopefully not completely false either. Moreover, to believe in a false image of oneself and try to live up to it could spell disaster, or would at least be a huge ego trip. I am sure we could name quite a few celebrities who have fallen into that trap (not least the last incumbent of the White House). We need our friends and family to shatter that false image, not bolster it. I have had those moments once or twice in my life and fortunately for me, close friends have coaxed me back to reality.

I have also had my delusions of grandeur when preparing productions. It is important to have expansive ideas when directing a play and some kind of creative vision for the production. These have usually come to me away from school (at home or on my travels or even sitting in a theatre). But the reality of being back in the drama studio, my classroom, would soon make me pare down some of my ideas to fit my young and inexperienced cast (and the small budget!). I remember a colleague, who had trained as an actress, once told me she was amazed at the number of productions we managed to stage over the academic year: usually three as well as re-staging of two on the Hungary Drama tour, the practical exams (which involved staging scenes) and the House Drama competition. She said that the department was like the National Theatre, staging one show after another. It was a great compliment. I must confess that there were a few moments when I thought I was running a mini-National Theatre and forgot about the rest of the school!

I have the impression that Marcus was above self image. In his ‘Meditations’ he describes himself as ‘a male, mature in years, a statesman, a Roman, a ruler.’ He does not mention his official title of Emperor. His ‘Meditations’ were no ego-trip, in fact the title of the first printed edition (in 1559) was ‘To Himself’. From his ‘Meditations’ we can see that he is looking at himself to see his faults and failings in an attempt to rectify them; and to reflect upon and use his experience of life to primarily teach himself. But of course, he is also teaching others who read his book, although whether he intended others to read his Meditations is unclear.

Marcus was very much aware of his friends and family (alive and dead) as is evident from the very first chapter, his first meditation if you like. There he gives a list of the family members, friends and tutors whom he admires and he also lists what he has learnt from them and would like to emulate in his own life: ‘From my grandfather, Verus, decency and a mild temper’ for example. I mentioned this in one of my own earliest meditations.

In that early blog I recalled that I was once in Paris (heaven knows when that will happen again) and having a miserable day, exploring the city or rather, my mid-life crisis at that time. I found myself in Montmartre and wandered into the medieval church of St Pierre de Montmartre. It is the oldest church in Montmartre and has been restored. Its ancient walls have been cleaned up so they are a pristine grey. I remember sitting in a quiet side chapel. At one end was a beautiful stained glass window of a modern abstract design. It stood out because it seemed incongruous in its medieval, Gothic setting. The window was a blaze of different colours as the sun shone through. Gazing at the window, I was reminded of my family and friends, each one a pane of glass, a different colour and shape, individual, yet somehow linked to me, just as each pane of glass is

essential to the overall design of the window. It was a great comfort to me then and as I recall it, it is now.

I could only appreciate the overall design of the window in its intricacy and vibrant colours because I was sitting at a distance from it, of course. A stained glass window is never seen at its best close-up. To some extent we have all been sitting at a distance from friends and loved ones because of the restrictions of the last year. At times we may have felt that physical distance acutely. It may have been palpable or, in our darkest thoughts, almost insurmountable. I am reminded of the old adage: absence makes the heart grow fonder. It is the physical distance of absence that helps us to appreciate others more and to realise how much they mean to us and how much we miss them. There have been occasions in this last year when I have been able to experience the ‘stained glass window’ effect in my moments of loneliness. Perhaps after a phone call or zoom or even just a text I have been able to see the other person as a bright colourful pane within the design of my own window. And there have been rare moments when I have seen in my mind’s eye the whole window itself in its intricate design and varied hues and have once again appreciated how essential my friends are in my life, different as they are.

I hope that you have experienced the ‘stained glass window’ effect too, in the last months, and, like me, will remember it, and carry it with you as we hopefully move on from lockdown.

Ave atque Vale – Hail and Farewell – until the next blog!

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A selection of previous meditations is also available in audio form as ‘Meditations of Neilus Aurelius’ ASMR on YouTube. I would also value any feedback on nzolad53@gmail.com or my Facebook page or Twitter.

Many thanks

Neilus Aurelius

Now I have returned from Budapest and I am writing this beside the steady flame of my customary candle. The Cafe Dumas on the Danube embankment, where I last wrote to you, dear reader, seems far, far away now. My travels are over for a while and I am ‘home for good and all’ as Fan, the boy Scrooge’s sister, says to him, when she comes to the boarding school to take him home for Christmas. But I should not be mentioning Christmas yet as we are only into September!

While I was away, I did not spend all my time in Budapest. I went with friends out of the city several times. One of the places I visited was Esztergom, in Upper Hungary, which, like Budapest, is on the river Danube. You can look down on Slovakia on the other side of the river from an elegant promenade. This is behind the imposing Basilica, the largest church in Hungary and one of the largest in Europe, and the remains of the Royal Palace. For Esztergom was where the Hungarian Kings first lived before the royal residence was moved to the Buda hills overlooking Pest. St Stephen, their first King was crowned there and baptised into the Christian Faith on Christmas Day 1000.

Centuries earlier, according to my guide book, it was also where Marcus Aurelius had an army encampment during the Romans’ reign over the territory. It was here, on the banks of the river Hron, which runs into the Danube, that Marcus wrote his Meditations. Sadly I did not have time to write one of my own there myself. I did discern a quietness and stillness about the castle area and the town, however, which was conducive to reflection.

It is that stillness and quietness of the towns we visited that impressed me most, aside from some beautiful buildings and piazzas large and small. As I sit here by my candle it is is the lamps that I remember: ornate and brilliant, beaming on stucco walls of yellow ochre, pink, grey, green and blue.

I was staying at my friend Adam’s apartment in the Taban district of Budapest at the back of the Royal Palace. Behind the block is a road where he parks his car with the Palace towering above it on the other side. There are similar lamps all along the road in the walls, elegant and warmly inviting, making me feel at home as I get out of the car. They remind me of the lamps in chapel quad at Pembroke, my Oxford college. I didn’t notice them much when I was an undergraduate there but I do now when I occasionally return.

Yes it was the lamps that I noticed as I sat one evening in the main square of Szekesfehervar, with my friends and a glass of wine. They slowly became brighter as the twilight faded into evening, their beams warming the yellow stucco walls until in the darkening sky, the square became blanketed in one incandescent comforting glow.

The great French novelist Marcel Proust commented in his masterpiece about memory ‘In Search of Lost Time’ that he would like life to be a series of happy afternoons. For myself, I would like life to be a series of mellow twilights. I image that Marcel was thinking of summer afternoons and I am certainly thinking of summer twilights, for it is only in summer that afternoons and twilights seem to stretch forever.

The square was quiet and quite still with a relaxed atmosphere. There was the low hum of conversation and music playing somewhere, perhaps in another street. The square was pedestrianised so children were running about, playing with their cycles and with water in a fountain.

People were quietly enjoying the evening and each other, sitting in the cafes and restaurants dotted about the square. There I was, in a town in Central Europe, enjoying the peace and quiet of a twilight evening. “Isn’t this what people really want?’ I reflected. To lead peaceful quiet lives enjoying being with their partners, their lovers, their friends,their children; enjoying being with each other? Life can be difficult enough after all. Is not this what the so called ‘European project’ is all about? It is not the ‘European project’ but the ‘European Peace.’ A peace we have shared somehow and not without problems. for seven decades and with which we have also embraced our ex-Soviet block neighbours. In abandoning the European project we should take care not to abandon the European peace.

‘The lamps are going out all over Europe’, said Sir Edward Grey, the British Foreign Secretary at the start of the First World War. We must do our utmost to make sure they do not got out again.

If you are enjoying my blog, and have not already done so, please sign up below to receive notification of each new blog by e mail. Just add your e mail to ‘Follow’ as it pops up!

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Many thanks
Neilus Aurelius