Here I am again writing down my thoughts by the flickering flame of a candle as the emperor Marcus Aurelius did during his long campaigns across the plains of Central Europe. How desolate and uninhabited those plains would have been then. I have often wondered if he composed some of his ‘Meditations’ in Pannonia, what is now Hungary. Hungary is a link between Marcus and I. I cannot say that I have conquered it. Nor have I had much time, in the throes of busy school Drama tours, to write down my own thoughts there as he may have done.
However, Hungary has been a major and enriching part of my life, more than it was for Marcus no doubt. Conquerors only have fleeting enjoyment of the lands they have subdued and rarely make strong connections, let alone friendships, as I have succeeded in doing over the years I have been on tour there. A friend once joked that I had become an international star as a result. I am not so sure, but I hope I have become an international friend.
I remember our first tour well. It was in February 1990, almost thirty years ago. We were performing Shakespeare’s ‘Julius Caesar’ in a new High School (Balatonalmadi) in the countryside near Lake Balaton. It was a boarding school and quite isolated, just down the road from the immense lake itself, which was frozen over with ice so thick you could drive a car over it.
I was so very proud of my students as I stood at the side of the open stage in their atrium watching them perform before an audience of students, teachers, parents and local dignitaries. I felt a rush of excitement: an audience in a foreign country were watching my students in one of my productions. It was emotional too when they were so enthusiastic and appreciative at the curtain call. As I gave a speech thanking the audience, for a moment I sensed an invisible bond.
But I never imagined that we would return, let alone for the next thirty years and that this country and my career as a Drama teacher would become so intertwined. Or that a string of my own scripts would be performed at the Kolibri Theatre in Budapest or my latest one, ‘Will: Shakespeare and Juliet’ would be translated into Hungarian. Or that I would still feel that rush of raw excitement whenever we perform in Budapest
‘Caesar’ was an appropriate choice that year. The Berlin Wall had just come down and the Soviet Empire with it. The political turmoil in the play mirrored current events and the Conspirators’ cry of ‘Liberty! Freedom! Tyranny is Dead’ in Shakespeare’s drama was echoing across modern Eastern Europe.
Only a few months earlier, on a planning trip to the school, my colleagues and myself were ushered into the Headteacher’s study along with all his staff to watch events unfolding in Budapest that morning on the television. It was October 23 1989, the day the new Republic of Hungary was formally declared and the day Soviet troops were finally moving out. After we watched the newscast, there was champagne accompanied by embraces and tears. No-one could imagine it was happening. Being half-Polish myself, I was as emotional as they were.
On our first tour, then, we had wandered into history as people will. It was a time of great excitement and hope. Sadly, thirty years on, the excitement has dissolved and that fresh hope has gone stale. Europe is now under the threat of fragmentation once again, liberties are being curtailed in Eastern Europe and tyranny is covertly once again rearing its head.
It is wonderful to continue the Budapest connection (dear me: that sounds like a Cold War thriller!) even though I am now retired from the school. I have been trying to understand why the project has been and continues to be important.
I have been rehearsing ‘A Christmas Carol’ recently, which will be performed in the Kolibri Theatre Budapest next February. Some of my actors are so excited to be returning and to perform there and to meet Hungarian students. They were sharing their memories with me. I realised that along with the achievement and the fun, the tour has given them memories, precious and joyful memories like the ex-Drama students I meet from time to time. Theres is a great importance in that but there is another.
A few years ago the cultural attaché from the Hungarian embassy attended a performance at the school. She remarked to me that the tour was important because, it was a small link of friendship between two countries, a sharing of cultures and values, a small gesture of peace and understanding. I had never thought of our little Drama tour in that way. We need those gestures, however small, in our fragmented world.
Ave atque vale – Hail and Farewell! Till the next blog